This one isn’t actually going to be slating Bordeaux like part 1.
Almost all I spoke about in the last part was pricing, so I won’t cover that off here.
While the region has its issues, the decline of market share that the region has faced has been as much about what other regions have done right as what Bordeaux has done wrong.
The common theme is, are these games that Bordeaux estates even have an interest in playing?
Shifting tastes
Consumer tastes are shifting away from the big oaky tannic style that Bordeaux is famous for. Cab Sav grapes have thick skins and naturally high tannin levels.
In a way, this is kind of out of Bordeaux’s hands – would you change hundreds of years of style because of shifting tastes? Chances are that they will come back around – taste is cyclical.
Burgundian wines, particularly the reds made from Pinot Noir, are lighter and fresher. Burgundy’s cool climate, combined with the natural characteristics of Pinot Noir, generally results in wines that are more delicate, lower in tannins, and often have higher acidity than Bordeaux’s Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines.
Sidenote: I know that there are hundreds of examples that could be used to portray a lighter style than Bordeaux – Burgundy just felt like a nice comparison, check out the price increases of Armand Rousseau over 10 years, and then look at Mouton Rothschild if you don’t believe me.
Cultural Appeal
This is something that Champagne obviously does really well, Dom Perignon made a ‘Lady Gaga’ wine, and collaborated with fashion brand Comme des Garcons. Obviously it makes it easier when your region is effectively synonymous with luxury and celebration.
It’s not just Champagne though, and it doesn’t just need to be collaborations with famous people.
Regions like Tuscany, and Napa Valley have marketed themselves as luxury lifestyle destinations, blending wine culture with tourism, gastronomy, and exclusive experiences.
Tuscany, for instance, has expanded its wine tourism industry, with estates such as Antinori and Tenuta San Guido offering immersive experiences that attract a global, affluent clientele.
Napa Valley’s proximity to Silicon Valley and its luxury branding have likewise contributed to its appeal as both a wine and lifestyle destination, attracting a younger, high-net-worth demographic.
Market Expansion and Transparency
The transparency and availability of data have made it easier for investors to make informed decisions, which in turn has contributed to the broadening interest in wines outside of Bordeaux.
In recent years, critics have paid greater attention to wines outside of Bordeaux – we’ve seen Robert Parker give 100 points to wines from Mendoza, Mosel, and Montalcino to name a few.
People are learning that other places make great wine, and can now go online and buy this great wine for a third of the price of what it costs in Bordeaux.
Conclusion
As consumer tastes shift and markets expand, Bordeaux faces a choice: adapt or hold fast to tradition. With lighter, fresher wines gaining traction and regions like Napa and Tuscany redefining luxury wine culture, there is a genuine conundrum.
Wait it out, and see if humans will do what humans often do (inexplicably revert to trends from 40 years ago), or are these foundational shifts that Bordeaux must adapt to?
